CODE10 #1 Part 5 – Keeling me softly

CODE10 #1 Part 5 – Keeling me softly

CODE10 Part 5 – Keeling me softly

Strumming my pain with his fingers,

Singing my life with his words,

Killing me softly with his song.

We came to the part, which grabbed many of our readers’ attention, and we didn’t want you to keep you in the shadow anymore. The part, which plays a massive role in CODE10‘s performance: The canting keel. 

Don’t forget our previous blog posts:

Let’s start with the definition:

A canting keel is a form of sailing ballast, suspended from a rigid canting strut beneath the boat, to swung to windward of a boat under sail to counteract the sail’s heeling force. The canting keel must pivot to either port or starboard, depending on the current tack. The main advantage of canting in a racing boat (if you have a decent-sized bulb) is the reduction in the crew.

What do we know about the CODE10‘s keel?

Casted lead bulb, stainless steel keel console with carbon prepreg peel. This is quite similar to the one we used for CODE8 boats, but it is a bit heavier and a bit more monumental. 

– Bulb weight: 860 kg

– Fin length: 2050 mm overall, 1600mm in the water

– Fin material: Weldox700

– Canting angle: ± 48°

The canting keel is placed into a carbon box, which lays on the main bone of the liner. The keel box has four mounting holes. One on the top, which is needed to release the ropes in order to remove the keel, one at the beginning if the top of the fin needs any adjustments, and one on each side to control the end block boxes. The keel box is hermetically sealed, each mounting hole is covered by a removable carbon or plexi cover.

How do you move canting keel?

To cant your keel reliably takes deceptively tricky engineering: forcing it over, ensuring it remains secure and avoiding failures of the highly loaded keel fin.

8mm Dynema ropes ensure the 1:5 power transmission, and twelve pieces of 57mm Harken shaves help maintain the system. To remain secure, we use a Spinlock stopper on each side.

Moving goes by two option: you can either use the pit winch or the free primary winch, you can use the port or the starboard winch. 57mm Harken Black Magic foot blocks helps you to always find a free winch. The arm in the boat is not too long, so the 1:5 ratio inside and the 1:40 gear with the winch is needed for moving. Moving from the center position to the 48°end goes relatively fast, because you only have to move 1,5m ropes.

We made a short video, how easy it is to move the canting keel via winches. For hardening the situation, we had 40.2. PTP winches, but it is much easier with 40.2 STP, as they come as standard in CODE10. Next time we are going to test it with 4-speed Karver winches.

Is hydraulic keel an option?

In every kind of canting keel, the system is watertight: the central part (where the keel head moves) is flooded, but the cylinders work in a dry area guarantee by special custom rubbers, placed between the rams and the longitudinal plates. The keel frame allows having a self-contained canting structure quickly to be placed inside the boat.

The keel technology is super-simple and well-proven. Manufactured by Cariboni it is a direct development of the IMOCA and Volvo 65 systems using a single ram with a double-acting cylinder (which both pushes and pulls).

Canting keel cylinder is built with hard-coated aluminium, has a rod in nitronic 50, and a rod terminal in 17-4-PH with integrated linear sensor and aluminium bearings. The system runs on a powerpack 2.5Kw 12V with a gear pump. All information shows up on a touch panel, and via buttons, can any change proceed.

Besides this easter egg, we will come forward with more video and reviews in April. Don’t miss them!

Do you have questions or suggestions? Contact us

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